Dzibilchaltún

Some things work out even when they don't work out.

I visited Dzibilchaltún today and that went great except for the onsite museum being closed. Bummer. It's supposed to be good but at least I was able to walk through the outdoor Mayan tablets and sculptures. This site was first settled in 1000 BC and has over 8000 mapped structures. That's impressive but unfortunately the road between Progresso and Merida needed paving stones so what remains isn't much. The deconstruction of the site lasted until the 1950s although American teams started trying to conserve the site a decade earlier only to be interrupted by WWII.

The place is sort of a mess. There are heaps of stones everywhere so it's hard to tell what is a ruined structure and what is a pile of stones cleared off another structure to reveal it. The best and most photographed temple is actually an earlier structure that was built over. The newer structure was a complete ruin and mostly cleared away to expose the very cool Templo de las Siete Muñecas named for the seven clay figurines with deformities that later residents buried within.

The part that didn't work out was the rest of the mini trip. I had planned to continue to Progreso on the coast and points beyond. The word I got from the guys at the gate scrapped that plan though. While it is technically on the way the best thing to do is go back to Merida and get a direct bus to Progreso. Problem was I knew that it would be like two hours before a local bus came by to take me back. So I started walking back to the highway with my thumb out. I didn't get any love until on the main road with the highway in sight when a univerisity student picked me up. Very cool of him. We had a good talk on the short ride back to Merida.

So that's how things can work out even when they don't work out.

And the lesson is: pick up hitchhikers because they just might be me.

Chichen Itza and Balankanche Cave

Chichen Itza is the most famous Mayan site due to it's size and proximity to Cancun. Being on the main highway to Merida (the original road *bisected* the ruins) made it as especially convenient stop for me although I was caught in a 2nd class bus service hell that dragged out my arrival and departure. But that's another story.

Anyway... The reaso for staying two nights in Pisté was two fold. First I'd be nearby so that I could get to the ruins before the tour buses arrive from Cancun and Merida and second that I would have plenty of time to see the place and nearby Balankanche Cave.

The plan went off without a hitch. I stayed ahead of thr tour groups and the hottest weather. while I certainly didn't have the place to myself it wasn't a mob scene and even the souvenir hawkers were still setting up and not going for the hard sell.

After seeing my fill of Chichen Itza and getting a bit of red neck, I hiked back into town and tried some traditional Yucatecan fair, pavo en relleno negro which is turkey in a black sauce. I'm not exactly sure what comprises the black sauce but it sure is good. Of course there were a number of beers, cervaza Superior, to wash it down. I highly recommend Las Mestizas restaurant if you are in the area.

After lunch I took a taxi to a nearby cave. In the 50s a local guide discovered a sealed passage within and after gaining access discovered a secret religious offering site. I was disappointed to see that the offerings didn't appear to be in their original locations but still it was interesting and a nice quick little side trip to something most people pass over.

I took over a hundred photos that will be uploaded when I get back home.